By JackCoHenry | Singapore | Bespoke Watch Straps and Fine Leather Goods
Choosing a watch strap comes down to three things: fit, function, and feel. Get those right and the aesthetics almost take care of themselves. At JackCoHenry, these are the decisions we work through with every client. This guide covers all of them — from lug width to leather type — so you order with confidence the first time.
Step 1: Start With Lug Width
Lug width is the internal gap between your watch's two lugs, measured in millimetres. It determines which strap will physically fit your watch — and it's non-negotiable. A 20mm strap will not seat properly on a 22mm lug.
How to find yours: Look up your watch brand and model online — manufacturer specs or watch databases will list the lug width. Alternatively, measure directly with a digital caliper across the inside of the lugs.
Common lug widths include 18mm, 19mm, 20mm, 21mm, 22mm, and 24mm. At JackCoHenry, custom widths are also available. Contact us for customisation.
Step 2: Check Your Lug Shape
Standard (straight) lugs: Most watches. A flat-end strap sits flush and is compatible with all JackCoHenry ready-to-wear straps.
Curved lugs: Some watches angle the lugs downward to follow the case curve. A flat strap will gap at the case. You'll need a curved-end strap. Common examples: F.P. Journe, H. Moser & Cie, Ming.
Rolex tip: Rolex models like the Submariner and GMT-Master II have pronounced lug edges. A straight strap works — tape the lug edge where the strap contacts it to prevent the leather from being nicked.
Step 3: Choose Your Material
Material affects how the strap looks, feels, and ages. Leather is the most versatile for dress and smart-casual wear.
|
Material |
Character |
Best For |
|
Smooth calf |
Clean, refined, breaks in beautifully |
Dress watches, daily wear |
|
Grained leather |
Textured, casual, hides wear well |
Smart-casual, field watches |
|
Shell Cordovan |
Dense, mirror-polishes with wear |
Collector pieces, heirloom builds |
|
Chromexcel |
Pull-up effect, rugged patina |
Tool watches, sport-casual |
|
Exotic (croc, ostrich) |
High contrast texture, formal |
Dress watches, formal occasions |
Step 4: Pick the Right Style
Straight end: Versatile, works with most watches, easier to source.
Curved end: Follows the case shape for an integrated look — needs to match your specific reference.
Tapered: Narrows more aggressively from lug to buckle. Adds elegance, suits dress watches.
Padded: Raised centre section for comfort and a sportier profile. Common on vintage-style pieces.
Step 5: Consider the Occasion
A single watch often needs more than one strap. Think about how and where you wear it most.
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Office and business: smooth calf or grained leather in tan, dark brown, navy, or black.
-
Weekend and casual: Chromexcel, Pueblo, or textured leather in earthy tones.
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Formal events: crocodile-embossed or smooth black or dark brown with a gold or silver buckle.
-
Daily rotation: a mid-range grained leather that hides wear and holds shape across conditions.
Step 6: Match Metals
Your buckle metal should match the dominant metal on your watch — case, crown, and pushers. Mixing gold and silver draws attention to itself.
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Yellow gold case → gold buckle
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Steel or white gold case → silver buckle
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Rose gold case → rose gold buckle
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Two-tone case → match the case metal, not the bracelet
Frequently Asked Questions
Q. How much should I spend on a watch strap?
A well-made leather strap sits between SGD 80–250 for ready-to-wear, and SGD 250–600+ for bespoke. The strap is one of the most visible parts of your watch — it's worth buying well once rather than replacing cheap straps repeatedly.
Q. Can I use the same strap on multiple watches?
Yes, as long as the lug width matches. Many collectors rotate straps across watches of the same lug width.
Q. Should my strap colour match my watch dial?
Not necessarily. Complementary colours often look better than exact matches. A navy dial pairs well with tan leather; a black dial works with almost any colour.
Q. What's the difference between bespoke and ready-to-wear?
Ready-to-wear straps are made in standard sizes and shipped from stock. Bespoke straps are made to your exact lug width, length, leather, colour, stitching, and edge finish — nothing leaves the bench until it's right for your watch specifically.
Related Articles
→ Fit Guide — will this strap fit my watch?