The bund strap, a watch strap with a full leather backing pad that extends under the watch case and across the full width of the wrist, has one of the most specific and documented origin stories in watch accessory history. For any leather atelier, it is one of the more unusual commissions received, and always a welcome one. This guide covers where it came from and why it still matters.
The Problem It Solved
In the 1930s and 1940s, pilots in the German Luftwaffe faced a specific problem when wearing watches in aircraft: metal watch cases in unpressurised cockpits at altitude became extremely cold. At cruising altitude, ambient temperatures outside the aircraft fell below -40°C, and the metal of the watch case conducted this cold directly to the wrist, causing discomfort and, in sustained exposure, potential cold injury.
The solution developed by German military suppliers was a leather backing pad — a wide piece of leather that sat between the metal case and the skin, insulating the wrist from the cold of the case. The strap passed through slots in the pad, holding it in position. This was the original Bund strap.
The Name
"Bund" is the German word for "band" or "union." The term refers to the backing pad itself — the part that distinguishes the Bund strap from a standard strap. The configuration consists of two elements: a standard strap (or sometimes two separate straps) and the backing pad that sits beneath the watch.
From Military to Civilian
Post-war, the Bund strap passed from Luftwaffe use into civilian watch culture through the same channel as many military watch items — surplus equipment and collector interest in instruments of the war period.
The configuration became particularly associated with large German pilot watches — specifically the Laco, Stowa, A. Lange & Söhne Flieger, and IWC Mark references that were produced under Luftwaffe specification. Collectors of these watches adopted the Bund strap as the period-correct configuration, and from there it entered broader collector culture.
The most famous civilian outing of the Bund strap is Steve McQueen, photographed in the late 1960s wearing a Heuer Monaco on what appears to be a Bund configuration — cementing its place in watch aesthetics independent of its military origin.
Construction
A traditional Bund strap configuration has:
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A standard strap (one or two pieces) in the correct lug width.
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A leather backing pad, typically 35–50mm wide, wide enough to extend beyond the watch case on both sides.
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Two horizontal slots in the backing pad through which the strap threads.
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The strap passes through the slots and attaches to the watch normally via spring bars; the pad sits loose beneath the case, held in place by the strap passing through it.
The Bund Strap Today
In contemporary watch collecting, the Bund strap is used on:
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Large-diameter pilot watches ( IWC Big Pilot, Laco, Stowa) as a period-appropriate configuration.
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Vintage Lemania and Heuer chronographs worn with deliberate reference to the McQueen aesthetic.
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Larger sport watches where the backing pad adds comfort by distributing the weight of a heavy case.
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As a collector's curiosity, the visual statement of a Bund pad beneath a watch is immediately distinctive.
The practical comfort benefit is real on large, heavy watches — the pad distributes the case weight across a wider wrist area. In Singapore's heat, however, the full leather backing increases skin contact and reduces airflow, making it less comfortable than a standard strap in high temperatures.
Frequently Asked Questions
Q. Can a Bund pad be used with any watch?
Yes — a backing pad can be made in any width and fitted with slots for any standard lug width strap. It is more appropriate on larger watches where the pad width is in proportion to the case. On a small dress watch, a Bund pad looks incongruous.
Q. Can JackCoHenry make a Bund strap?
Yes. Both the strap and the backing pad are leatherwork within our standard capability. Contact us with your watch reference and lug width.
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