By JackCoHenry Singapore | Bespoke Watch Straps and Fine Leather Goods
20mm is the most common lug width in watchmaking — the size used by the majority of Rolex sport and dress references, most Omega Seamaster variants, and a large portion of IWC, Tudor, and Longines models. If you own one watch on a leather strap, it's probably 20mm. At JackCoHenry, it is our single most commissioned width, which means we have cut it in every leather we carry. This guide covers the best options and how to choose between them.
Which Watches Use 20mm?
20mm is the default lug width for many of the world's most-worn luxury sports and dress watches. The selection below is a representative sample.
|
Brand |
Model / Reference |
Lug Width |
Notes |
|
Rolex |
Submariner (all refs) |
20mm |
Including ceramic bezel models |
|
Rolex |
Datejust 36mm & 41mm |
20mm |
All current references |
|
Rolex |
Explorer I (all refs) |
20mm |
Including ref 124270 |
|
Rolex |
Explorer II (all refs) |
20mm |
Including ref 226570 |
|
Rolex |
GMT-Master II |
20mm |
All current references |
|
Rolex |
Air-King |
20mm |
Current ref 126900 |
|
Omega |
Seamaster 300m (most refs) |
20mm |
Including 2531.80 |
|
Omega |
Seamaster Planet Ocean 42mm |
20mm |
Standard case size |
|
IWC |
Portugieser Chronograph |
20mm |
Standard references |
|
IWC |
Pilot Chronograph (most refs) |
20mm |
Including current IW377709 |
|
Tudor |
Black Bay 36 / Heritage |
20mm |
Selected references |
|
Longines |
HydroConquest / Master |
20mm |
Multiple collections |
|
Grand Seiko |
Selected SBGR / SBGX |
20mm |
Many sport-dress models |
|
Vacheron Constantin |
Overseas (42mm) |
20mm |
Standard case |
The Full Range: 20mm Covers Every Style
The popularity of 20mm means JackCoHenry's entire leather inventory is available at this width — from fine dress leathers for a Rolex Datejust to heavy pull-up leathers for a Submariner worn off the wrist. A summary of the style spectrum:
-
Dress (Datejust, Omega De Ville): Smooth calf, Chevre Sully, or Epsom in dark brown, black, or oxblood. Strong taper to 18mm.
-
Sport-dress (Explorer, IWC Pilot): Grained calf (Dollaro, Andria), Chromexcel, or Koala. 20/18mm or 20/18mm taper.
-
Diver off-duty (Submariner, Seamaster 300): Chromexcel, El Vaquero, or Badalassi Carlo Wax for character and durability.
-
GMT and travel (GMT-Master II): Two-tone colour options — dark brown face with contrasting lining — to echo the watch's dual-colour bezel.
JackCoHenry's Top Leather Picks for 20mm
Chevre Sully (Alran, France)
- Tannery: Alran, Graulhet, France
- Character: Fine pebble-grain goatskin with exceptional colour depth. 80+ colours. The most refined texture in the JackCoHenry range — appropriate for dress watches at any price point.
- Best for: Rolex Datejust, Omega De Ville, dress watches on yellow or rose gold cases.
Andria (Italian Calfskin)
- Tannery: Italian tannery
- Character: Natural-grain smooth calf. Versatile across dress and casual. Available in an unusually wide colour range including electric and fashion-forward tones.
- Best for: Daily driver for sport-dress watches. IWC Pilot, Explorer, Tudor.
Chromexcel (Horween, USA)
- Tannery: Horween Leather Co., Chicago
- Character: The benchmark pull-up leather. Develops a distinctive marbled patina — no two straps age identically. Available in Black, Burgundy, Olive, Brown, Natural.
- Best for: Submariner, GMT-Master II, Seamaster 300m, tool watches worn hard.
El Vaquero (La Perla Azzurra, Italy)
- Tannery: La Perla Azzurra, Italy
- Character: Italian pull-up calf, slightly more refined than Chromexcel. Develops a warm patina without the pronounced grain lines. Available in 10 earthy tones.
- Best for: Submariner on steel, Explorer II, watches worn daily across varied environments.
Badalassi Carlo Wax
- Tannery: Badalassi Carlo, Florence
- Character: Heavily oiled full-grain calf from a Florentine tannery. Deep, saturated colour. Pull-up effect visible on bend. Lasts exceptionally well.
- Best for: Submariner, GMT, watches for collectors who want the strap to age alongside the case.
Dollaro (Conceria Walpier, Italy)
- Tannery: Conceria Walpier, Tuscany
- Character: Uniform pebble grain. Durable, holds shape, resists marking. A practical choice for all-day, every-day wear.
- Best for: Sport-dress crossover watches, IWC, Vacheron Overseas.
Frequently Asked Questions
Q. What is the best leather strap for a Rolex Submariner?
Chromexcel is the most popular choice — its pull-up patina develops a character that suits the Submariner's tool-watch heritage. For a cleaner look, El Vaquero or Badalassi Carlo Wax in dark brown or black are strong alternatives. Avoid smooth dress leathers on a Submariner — they look incongruous with the case.
Q. What taper should I choose for a 20mm watch?
20/18mm is the standard and works across dress and sport. For elegant dress watches, 20/16mm adds more visual taper. For sporty or oversized cases, 20/18mm or 20/19mm maintains proportion.
Q. What strap colour pairs best with a blue dial?
Tan and cognac are the most versatile — they contrast the blue without competing. Dark brown also works well. Navy-on-navy (matching dial and strap) is possible but reads as flat. For a Rolex GMT Pepsi or Batman, dark brown with contrast stitching plays on the bezel's dual tone.
Q. Can I use a leather strap on a Rolex Submariner?
Yes. The Submariner's water resistance is in the case and crystal — not the bracelet or strap. A leather strap is not waterproof, but wearing a Submariner on leather for everyday use (not swimming) is entirely reasonable. Many collectors rotate between bracelet, rubber, and leather.
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